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Guest Blog- Yummraj: EATING OUT IN OLD DELHI – CHANDNI CHOWK, CHAWRI BAZAR, JAMA MASJID AREA & DARYAGUNJ

Yummraj the anonymous foodie behind his eponymous food blog is one of India’s most authentic and renowned food bloggers. He has a penchant for uncovering hidden gems and the potential to turn a small eatery into a roaring success with just one favorable review. He loves street food and has tried it all from Chandni Chowk’s jalebis to shrimp mousse in Ho Chi Minh city! See more at: http://yummraj.com/ I originally wrote this post in 2011 but have been revising it from time to time. Latest update being 30th April 2015

crowd @ Kake di Hatti
Some of the best Dilli food is found in Chandni Chowk & adjoining areas like Chawri Bazar as many of the shops have not changed much from what they were about fifty to hundred years ago. This is not a comprehensive list but is a fairly large list which u will need few visits to cover – Some of the eateries mentioned below (e.g. Karim’s ,Jalebiwala etc) have been covered in detail (in other posts) in this blog – u can read those & enjoy the pics as well. Attached is a hand drawn (by YUMMRAJ) map without which you will never find anything. You may need to take a printout and carry it with you as, without a map, you can
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easily get lost here. Let me tell u that inspite of the printout u might need to use Indian GPS – ‘Bhaisaheb, ye ved prakash lemon wale ka dukaan kahaan hai?’

click on the picture to enlarge it – so that u can read it, suggest u to carry a printout of the map
The best way to get here is to park your car in CP (Connaught Place) and take the metro to Chawri Bazaar or Chandni Chowk. Let me warn u though that there r huge queues at the ticketcounters of Chandni Chowk station on the way back. The other option is to park the car at CP & take an auto rickshaw.
Daulat ki chaat being sold at Chandni chowk. Winters only. Multiple vendors. Must try…
As u alight from the metro at Chawri Bazaar, take the gate towards Hauz Kazi. Once you are up on the street, you will see a clearing/intersection of roads. Go to the diagonally-opposite corner of the road, towards your right. You will find a tiny shop called ‘Ashok Chaat Bhandar’. You will see the red-coloured Times Food Guide certification on its wall. Ask for their signature offering – kalmi chaat and urad daal chaat. They use a kachalu chutney which is totally different, and simply awesome. Avoid the paani puris – they r no different from the rest of the places. Then take a rickshaw to the jalebi wala store in Chandni Chowk. Have jalebis there and start walking towards the parathe wali gali.
huge jalebis
You will find Ghantewaala sweets on your left. They have fantastic kalakand and are also known for sohan halwa. I prefer the sohan tikki over the sohan halwa. The sohan papdi is also good. Opposite Ghantewala hop into a small shop called Natraj ke Dahi Bhalley……… YUMM
dahi bhalle
A little walk along the same footpath as Natraj, u will find a chaatwala – very good aloo tikki chaat & also fruit chhat. Go for the less masala version. Paranthewali gali is over-hyped and sadly they deep fry the paranthas!!!! Only two paranthas that stand out are rabri parantha and papad ka parantha. Then start walking in as directed by the arrows in the map (walk into paranthe wali gali, turn right, turn left – you can stop for an aloo tikki chaat on your left. Post this you’ll hit a T-point; turn right and keep walking – you will find the shop to your left) till you reach JB kachori wala on your left. You will be constantly jostling with people, stray dogs, cycles, thelas and motor bikes; but you’ll put with all this as the kachoris are too good – though they r spicy & hot as well. This is the second best Khasta Kachori I have ever had – the best one so far being Bajpai kachori bhandar in Lucknow.
JB kachoriwala
Ask for Sagarmal Brijbhushan Rewariwale & try their kachori subzee. They serve Desi Ghee bedami pooris with super hot ‘n spicy aloo that set my tongue on fire.
Bedami poori piece dipped in aloo subzi waiting to b popped into the mouth
Walk out of the Parathewali gali. Turn left and walk towards Town Hall. Once you reach the Town Hall clearing, there will be a shop on the 1st floor to your left – Asha Ram Foods. You will have to take a narrow staircase beside a Kotak Mahindra Bank ATM.
inside the restaurant
Once upstairs, you can get some good paranthas and sabzees. You will have to buy the food by waiting in a line, unless u have a lady in the group – says the waiter ‘If u have a lady in the group we serve u at the table – else u stand in a queue’!!!!!
doodh wala shahi paneer
Cross the Town Hall clearing and stop over at Ved Prakash nimbu pani wala. We, at times, have two glasses one after the other.
Ved Prakash nimbu pani wala
As u walk towards Fatehpuri Masjid u come across Tiwari Brothers on ur right. They serve some good samosas kachoris & sweets.
cocktail samosas
A little further is Shiv Mishtann Bhandar. They serve Desi Ghee bedami pooris with aloo, nagori pooris with halwa & chholey Bhature the traditional way super enjoyable till the time u start thinking calories.
Chholey Bhature
Keep walking till you are near Fathepuri Masjid. Beside it is Chaina Ram Sweet shop. They are famous for Karachi halwa. That is good but I prefer the sew paak much better. Sew paak is a sweet made of sew (bhujia)!!!! I have never had it so good anywhere else.
Holi ghewar
On the right of Fatehpuri Masjid, go straight to Giani’s di hatti. They have a unique Rabri Falooda in one counter and daal halwa and gajar ka halwa in the other.
Rabri Falooda
The rabri falooda looks innocent but is very heavy- ask for one glass & ask for the second if u still have space.
gajar halwa
The halwas r one of the best I have had in a while. All the halwas at Bikanervalas , Haldirams & Om sweets r peanuts in front of the halwa served here.
Giani’s di hatti
Beside Gianis there is Kake di Hatti.
paranthas @ Kake di Hatti
They make some awesome paranthas (light years better than the ones at parathewali gali) , super paneer curries, daal & lots of other curries.
@ Kake di Hatti
This was all veg food. For non-veg food, one of the most popular places is Karim’sopposite Jama Masjid. Go for the mutton sheek kabab and the burra kabab. They have a long menu card but these two stand out. From 9.00 am in the morning to 11.30 am, you will get slow fire cooked overnight – Nihari and paaya (stew made of hoofs of the goat). This is also something not to be missed.
Karim’s
For curries, I find Al Jawahar old shop better. Just walk out of the shop and walk into the Al Jawahar old shop to the right of Karims (when u face Karim’s). Eat the main course here. The mutton stew & korma is great.
Lipsmacking good mutton stew at old Jawahar
To find other non-veg food, get off at the same place in Chawri Bazaar metro station and start going left till the hamdard shop. There are quite a few non-descript meat/kabab shops here. On the road perpendicular to hamdard, you will find a thela wala who sells good kababs. If you keep walking further you will find Mirza Ghalib’s house also to your right – though there’s nothing to eat there. On the main Daryaganj Road (the road between Delhi Gate & Jama Masjid), there is a shop called Changezi Chicken. You can try the ‘changezi chicken’ dish but the ‘afghani chicken’ dish is lip-smacking. Try Tandoori Chicken and Butter Chicken at Moti Mahal Deluxe on the main Daryaganj Road. They claim they are the inventors of these dishes. If u want to gorge on Dilli’s own meat curry Nihari (meat slow cooked overnight with spices & herbs) , try Haji Shabrati Nihariwale.
Haji Shabrati Nihariwale
If u r more adventurous, try Kallu Nihariwale. U will surely not b disappointed.
Kallu Nihariwale
Near Haji Shabrati in case u want to try roadside Kababs, u might like Babu bhai kababwale.
Babu bhai kababwale
Kaale baba kababwale makes some good meat kababs as well.
Kaale baba kababwale
I guess this is a good amount of homework (or, rather road work) for you to start with. Enjoy the experience, and pop in a few pudin haras (2 spoons of Aquaptychotis in case u r a bong) if there’s any suspicion of post-food indigestion etc …………………..

 

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